Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
